Immersion in Cajun Country

Farms and crawfish ponds stretch for miles, cultivating a non-rushed pace of life. The appetizing smell of smoked meat wafts through the air. Cypress trees tower over homes and roads, providing a shady respite from intense sunshine and humidity. Birds whistle melodious songs. Turtles ditch the warmth of their log perches with a kerplunk into the water as footsteps near. 

These are some of the sights, sounds, and smells of the South we grew to appreciate and delight in after two weeks of immersion in Cajun country while visiting our friends Dwaine and Belinda in Ville Platte, Louisiana.

Ville Platte is a unique place known as the “Smoked Meat Capital of the World.” It’s also famous for its swamp pop music and even features a museum dedicated to this rare genre, which combines country and western, rhythm and blues, and French Louisiana influences.

Perhaps most noteworthy, though, is the town’s special holiday celebrated on the first Friday of October. The whole town shuts down to commemorate Squirrel Day and the start of hunting season. Most men head to the woods to spend the weekend hunting, leaving most of the women behind to enjoy shopping and girl time. 

Food Focus

As indicated by the importance of Squirrel Day, food is a focal point in this region. It typically centers on rice and gravy, which isn’t as plain as it sounds. It involves hours of browning meat, scraping up the stuck-on bits, adding water to deglaze the pan, reducing, and then repeating the process over and over. Not only does it create a delicious gravy, but it also tenderizes any meat. 

The meat, often smoked, is usually tasso (smoked pork), sausage, shrimp, chicken, or steak — or a combination. 

No Cajun dish is complete without seasoning, which varies per cook but always includes cayenne pepper. Belinda uses about 80% cayenne pepper along with garlic powder, onion powder, smoked paprika, and white pepper. 

The people in Louisiana love their red pepper. You’ll even find it on pickles. We grew a taste for its flavor and steady heat. We also sampled cracklins and literal pigtails, which were kind of like chicken wings.

Another staple in Cajun cooking, besides gumbo, is boudin (pronounced boo-dan — but with a soft “n”). It looks a bit like sausage but is not sausage at all. Somewhat akin to pasties in the North, it typically comprises pork, rice, and seasonings in sausage casings. This steamed all-in-one meal is enjoyed for breakfast, lunch, supper, or a snack. ​

Crawfish Boil

Crawfish boils, common in the region when the critters are in season, provide a great reason to get together. While the live creatures undergo a running water bath by hose, corn cobs and potatoes — and sometimes other vegetables and hot dogs — are thrown into the boiling pot as an appetizer. 

After the veggies are cooked and shared, crawfish are transitioned to the boiling pot, and seasoning — including the all-important cayenne pepper — is added. When the crustaceans are cooked, they’re moved to a large insulated cooler to keep them warm.

Eating the feast is an experience in itself. It involves gathering around a partitioned table with a big hole in the middle to provide easy access to a trash barrel for collecting discarded shells. A huge scoop holding about five pounds is used to transport crawfish from the cooler to one of the table partitions, and a messy adventure ensues. 

Some people wear gloves while breaking apart and eating crawfish, and for good reason. The spices and wetness from the boil can turn fingers orange while trying to get the tail meat out, and the sharp shells can cut into skin. We opted not to use gloves and dove right in, reveling in the deliciousness despite the mess and effects on our hands.

Southern Hospitality

The South has a wonderful reputation for its generous hospitality, which adds to the welcoming, laid-back atmosphere of the region. Unlike in the big city we spent 24 years in, the people in Central Louisiana don’t tend to be in a hurry. They take time to stop their grocery shopping and errand-running to catch up with a familiar — or not so familiar, in our case — face. 

People enjoy getting together, visiting, and celebrating life. Despite their funny talking (omitting “are,” as in, “You welcome,” for example), they’re authentic and openhearted. 

We were blessed to participate in three get-togethers while in town. Each gathering centered on a delicious meal and plentiful opportunities to hear from others, share about our experiences, and learn from one another. Although the people had just met us, they genuinely cared about us and welcomed us back with open arms the next time we happen to pass through. 

Our lives are richer for having spent two weeks in Cajun country.

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